South Australia

Having spent the last two months in the Northern Territory, we finally crossed the border to South Australia on the 25th October.

To help pass the time while travelling long distances, we have been listening to a talking book called " The Dig Tree ". While mainly dealing with Burke and Wills' expedition to cross the country from Melbourne to the Gulf of Carpentaria, it also covers, in part, the concurrent explorations of John McDouall Stuart who succeeded in mapping the route for the overland telegraph line from Port Augusta to Darwin, and after whom the Stuart Hwy was named.Apparently, Burke and Wills' expedition was so poorly organised that it wasn't so much a wonder that they perished, but that they succeeded at all !!

Not far over the border near a town called Marla, we stumbled upon a little known opal mining town called Mintabie. It had it's own little boom time in the 70's when a few people became millionaires but has slowed considerably to a population of die-hards numbering somewhere around 30. Our self-professed guide for the day was a fellow by the name of Kevin who has called Mintabie home for the last 5 years. He readily admits that " opal fever " takes a hold and keeps him there in unbearable heat in summer and cold in winter hoping for that lucky strike.

A day later and evidence of that  " fever "  was everywhere from about 30km out from Coober Pedy. Machinery and piles of rock were heaped in all directions as far as the eye could see, with no attempt to rehabilitate or even soften the landscape. No wonder Mad Max was filmed here; it's absolutely desolate.
 I can well imagine the traditional owners of the land with their " leave no trace " lifestyle looking upon Coober Pedy with despair. It truly is a blight on the landscape. That's not to take away from the absolute feats of engineering which enable the residents to live underground in the constant and comfortable 24*C temperature. One home even boasts its own underground swimming pool!


 Driving to Port Augusta we passed lots of salt pans; the very same that caused such consternation for the early explorers. They stretch for hundreds of square kms promising water but delivering none. How frustrated they must have been in a time when reaching the next waterhole meant the difference between life or death.

Port Augusta; one end of the Stuart Hwy, and also a stepping stone from east to west. It must have been a thriving and busy epicentre of activity in its day. It provided us with our first glimpse of the many stone cottages that are found all over S.A. They range in condition from crumbling walls in a paddock to immaculate buildings housing modern businesses. Having spent all my life surrounded by timber houses on " stilts", I found these stone cottages so quaint and adorable. ....And they are everywhere....


 A side-trip to the Flinders Ranges was a must since our route didn't actually take us there. We had read that they were a disappointment but to see for ourselves, so we did. Besides, we had met a couple in Alice Springs who had managed Wilpena Pound campground for 8 months and they said it was beautiful... At this point I should mention that it's best to see Wilpena Pound from the air in order to appreciate the full circle of mountains. The view we were afforded from the lookout was less than ideal as it was very overcast and also blowing a gale and freezing cold. Other parts of the Flinders Ranges were stunning and we did see the many emu families ( dad looking after the chicks ) that were promised in this region.


 Back in Port Augusta, we spent most of an afternoon at the amazing Wadlata Outback Experience. It's basically a museum I guess, but very interesting with sections on the geological formation of the area, aboriginal woodcraft and dreaming stories, the explorers, the construction of the overland telegraph line, the original outback postie, the adaptations of desert creatures, you name it, they had it.


Ever since we first thought of this trip, Mick has wanted to see the Eyre Peninsula. He had heard from many sources that it is beautiful ( and produces some of the finest oysters in Australia ) so off we went...We made a beeline for Ceduna which is for many the last place to stock up before heading across the Nullarbor. The Flinders Hwy runs from Ceduna along the coastline to Port Lincoln passing through several bays which exist because of fishing and oyster farming. The seed oysters come from tassie and are grown to full size in baskets in the sea. Mussels are also grown on ropes attached to a buoy and suspended vertically in the sea. When the buoy sinks to a certain depth , they know they're ready for harvest.


Down in Port Lincoln, they also farm bluefin tuna. We had great fun swimming with and feeding these enormous fish weighing up to 70 kg ( and they are the juveniles!)They were huge and they were fast. The best way to see them feed was to watch someone else hold out a pilchard cos they come from behind and are lightning quick.


Unfortunately, we had to rush our time on Eyre Peninsula as we had booked a houseboat for a week on the Murray River to celebrate my 50th birthday. Sam also turned 8 while aboard.
Thanks to everyone who rang or texted to wish me a happy birthday. It made the day special. xx